Michael Golann/Photo Editor Buffalo cauliflower bites.
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Restaurant Week is back for the spring, and 205 Dry has debuted a new $35 dinner menu for its participating patrons. Both my photographer, Michael, and I had never gone to the popular speakeasy before, although we’d both been sung its praises by friends. When I arrived with him for our reservation on a warm, spring evening, it was with an empty stomach and high expectations.

Stepping into 205 Dry, it seemed, at first, like I had entered a tiny vintage bookstore. Our hostess then led us to another door, concealed deceptively by a bookshelf, where, after ducking through a red velvet curtain, the rest of the restaurant was revealed. As we were led to our table, Michael and I marveled at the beautiful setting we’d just wandered into. From the occasional Peggy Lee song playing over the speakers to the black and white photos and vintage furniture, 205 Dry feels like a 1920s time capsule. Velvety couches and cushy chairs filled the space, along with tables like the one we sat at. The lengthy bar featured an impressive collection of liquor as its backdrop, the glass bottles glittering in the light of the crystal chandeliers that hung over the booth. Michael and I were sat by the bar, at a table that was elegantly decorated with a candle, bright red flowers and yellow-paged books. Only a few minutes in and I was already blown away by the restaurant’s stylish aesthetic. Now, the food just had to deliver.

205 Dry’s Restaurant Week menu offers exclusive specials not on the original menu along with some of their classic options. I was also impressed by how inclusive their menu was, with each course offering a vegan option. For my first course, I went with the buffalo cauliflower wings while Michael ordered the shrimp and grits. My “wings” arrived on elegant china, doused in an orange buffalo sauce and garnished beautifully with a curled strip of cucumber and a thin ribbon of carrot. As someone who’s not the biggest fan of vegetables, I was amazed by how much I loved the cauliflower in this dish, and I might even prefer it to real wings. The delicious buffalo sauce had a zesty flavor and kick that was balanced by the refreshing cucumber. Even better was the house-made dill ranch. Creamy and flavored perfectly with earthy herbs, I found myself scraping every last morsel of it from my plate. I wish they had served it as a side dip rather than dolloping it beneath the wings so I could’ve enjoyed dunking the florets into it. Michael was also impressed with his course. The shrimp took him and me by surprise, as any note of fishiness was masked by a charred rich flavor that somehow managed to make it taste more like a barbequed chicken than seafood. Although unexpected, he appreciated the unique taste and said it reminded him of a summer barbeque. Michael also noted that the Cajun sauce that doused the dish provided a decadent creaminess while the, well, grittiness of the grits offered another intriguing texture.

Next up were our second courses. Michael opted for one of 205 Dry’s most popular dishes, the OG Chicken Sandwich, while I went with the pad thai. Although originally served vegan, I ordered mine with chicken, which can be added, along with other proteins like fish and tofu, for an extra charge. I was served a hefty portion of noodles, topped with peppers, onions, crushed peanuts and a garnishing of bright green cilantro. I loved how well-cooked and soft the texture of the rice noodles were — and while the flavor was a little more muted than the kind you might get at a traditional Thai place, the black chili sauce offered a much-needed burst of spice and umami. I also greatly appreciated that they didn’t skimp out on the peanuts, as they’re one of my favorite parts of pad thai, and nearly every mouthful was accompanied by a welcome, nutty crunch. Although I ordered the chicken because it’s how I normally prefer pad thai, the courses’ delicious flavors and portions far exceeded any need for it. Across from me, Michael dug into his chicken sandwich, which was served with the restaurant’s crowd-favorite fries, house slaw and their signature 205 sauce. Salty, thick and with what Michael described as the perfect potato-to-crisp ratio, we both agreed the fries lived up to the hype, and I robbed him of probably a quarter of his portion. The sandwich was generously packed with fried chicken and toppings, and Michael said the chicken was crispy and fresh.

For our third and sadly final course, Michael and I had two dessert options to choose from. I chose the mango mousse, while Michael opted for the fried vanilla cheesecake. Of all the great food I had that night, this one was my favorite. The bright orange mousse was served in a beautiful tiny dessert glass with a miniature spoon to boost. Topping the mousse was a slice of mango, a drizzling of strawberry glaze and sprinkled tajin spice, a seasoning blend that included chili flakes, sea salt and lime. The mango flavor was exceptionally refreshing and full, enhanced by the sweetness of the strawberry glaze. But the star of the dish was the tajin spice, which elevated the flavors tenfold. It was remarkable how much the combination of heat, salt and tangy lime brightened and complimented the fruity sweetness. With the dessert being tiny as it was, it was a struggle to not finish in under thirty seconds, and even then it was gone far too soon. Michael was also delivered to sugary nirvana by his fried cheesecake, which he described as fancier circus food. He found the textures of the dish to be surprising, with a fried crunchy outside that gave way to a smooth creamy interior.

Going in I had lofty expectations for 205 Dry. With its charming speakeasy aesthetic and diverse array of delicious dishes, I’m happy to say the restaurant lives up to the hype. As we polished our plates, Michael and I were already making plans to go back on our own, and if that’s not a sign of fine dining, I don’t know what is.