From the outside, On the Roxx Bar & Grill isn’t much, which could explain how easily it’s overlooked compared to Lost Dog and Number 5. Located at 528 Court St., the humble brick structure has little curb appeal because of its location — it’s in close proximity to two strip clubs and a sex shop.

Hesitantly, I ventured inside and was greeted by the restaurant’s owner, Mary Ruffo-Fish, a lovely Binghamton local whose inviting demeanor began to ease my apprehensions about the restaurant. Mary led us to the seating area, which is little more than a few wooden tables in a room with barren gray walls and televisions airing lotto drawings. Still, I was intent on giving On the Roxx a chance.

When it came down to order, Mary generously offered me the chance to sample all of the restaurant’s entrées. As I waited for the food, she explained the history of her restaurant.

On the Roxx is very much a family business. The chefs are Mary’s three brothers and her mother inspired the signature drink, the Moscow Mule, a refreshing and whimsical take on an old-school drink served in a mason jar that you get to take home.

For its first seven years as a restaurant, On the Roxx was located Downtown on Court Street. With views overlooking the river, it served a normal clientele of late-night State Street remnants. Three years ago, it moved to its new, more distant Court Street location, and now serves a more steady stream of local professionals. This is On the Roxx’s first time participating in Restaurant Week at the new location.

But back to the food.

The cuisine could be described as American-contemporary, with clear Italian influence. From the homemade gnocchi to the succulent stuffed pork loin, the layers of flavor are complex and the portions substantial.

For an appetizer, On the Roxx offers two options: a caprese salad or bruschetta. The caprese salad, made up of house-made mozzarella, tomatoes and basil leaves and topped with balsamic is the better option of the two.

Deserving of special mention is the stuffed portobello mushroom, which is robust, hearty and artfully balanced in flavor. The smokiness of the mushroom is complemented by the char of the grilled vegetables and finished with high notes of citrus and a touch of sweetness.

If you’re considering the gnocchi entrée option, which Mary recommends the most of the four, your best bet is the vodka sauce over the other choices of pesto and marinara.

For dessert, a homemade bread pudding is featured. It’s delightfully thick and fits in seamlessly with the rest of the warm comfort food on the menu.

All in all, I was pleasantly surprised by my dining experience. Through her hearty food and her sweet motherly presence, Mary managed to bring warmth to what initially seemed like a dreary dining experience. I’d go back for the portobello, but I’d stay for the Mary.