Upon entering Galaxy Brewing Company, its warm, amber lighting makes it look as if you are viewing the world through a glass of beer. Whether intentional or not, it sets the stage for a meal whose palette will be heavily informed by the rich tastes and artisanship of beer culture.

Galaxy Brewing Company’s décor is a mix of post-industrial retrofitting and a homage to the cosmos. Intergalactic posters line the walls, lending the place a slightly cyberpunk vibe. From our seats we could see the stainless-steel vats of the in-house distillery through glass windows.

Twelve varieties of draft beer are brewed on premises and dozens more are offered on the menu. Owner Mike Weisel recommended course pairings, including a gluten-free hard cider for my friend. The Galaxy Silk was arguably the lightest of its offerings and was essentially tasteless. It almost seemed as though I was meant to enjoy a texture rather than flavor. Happily, the Cask Conditioned Ale was delicious, as was a Russian dessert beer called Panic! that had the consistency (and nearly the alcohol content) of a cognac.

For my first course, I ordered the pan-roasted Brussels sprouts. The sprouts were tender and stewed from a marinade of bacon and onion. Crumblings of blue cheese and apple accentuated the dish’s tang. My friend ordered the mixed-green salad, a decision I soon regretted not making. It was delicious and far more complex than its name would imply. Beet crisps mixed well with goat cheese, nuts and mandarin oranges made for a lush and flavorful salad.

Next came my pork tenderloin with squash puree, rapini and cauliflower. The tenderloin was served on a warm grain waffle and topped with apple-beet chutney. I found the flavors of cauliflower and rapini detracted from the dish due to their bitterness. Instead, they added a flavor of wok that seemed misplaced. The meat was moist and tender.

My friend ordered a portobello mushroom stuffed with smoked pumpkin, eggplant, lentils and goat cheese in a sage-infused butter sauce. She remarked that there was a strong smoky taste to the dish, but I found it absent. Its presentation was remarkable: It was an earthy colored success that looked like an autumn canopy. The mushroom was succulent and the goat cheese served as a creamy medium for the lentils and pumpkin.

Both of us agreed to order the flourless chocolate torte for dessert. It was presented with chocolate drizzle and a sweet raspberry sauce. The cake was rich and indulgent despite being flourless and our fears of not having room for it were allayed at first bite.

Over the course of our meal, Weisel provided helpful and informative commentary to us about the making of beer. Excited about the revitalization of the Downtown area, he mentioned that he hopes to tap into the student market through a live music scene.

Galaxy Brewing Company is a lovely yet still largely undiscovered gem of a restaurant. When I ate it was Happy Hour and the bar was the liveliest spot in the house, yet some diners began to come in as we finished. The range of ingredients and boldness of tastes are testament to the talent of its head chef Brian Lovesky, a Culinary Institute of America graduate. For a $20 dinner this restaurant week, you too can experience the taste of a gourmand without the price tag.